Where to Eat in Roma & Condesa: 7 Places We Love
Where to eat in Roma and Condesa, Mexico City: Sinaloa-style seafood, Asian-inspired tacos, a classic cantina, a French bistro and a Spanish taberna.
Food & Drinks | Nov 05, 2026
Roma and Condesa are where most visitors to Mexico City stay, and for good reason: leafy streets, Art Deco buildings, parks, and more great places to eat per block than almost anywhere in the city. The problem isn't finding somewhere to eat. It's choosing.
This is our short list: the places in Roma and Condesa our team keeps recommending to friends, from a Michelin-recognized taco window to a cantina where the waiters have seen it all.
Key takeaways
- For seafood, go to Mi Compa Chava (Sinaloa-style, expect a line) or Ultramarinos Demar (Michelin Bib Gourmand).
- For tacos with a twist, Cariñito Tacos serves Asian-inspired pork belly tacos from a tiny street window.
- For a classic night out, Covadonga is a historic cantina with Spanish roots, dominoes and garlic soup.
- In Condesa, Rojo Bistrot is a French classic, Taj Mahal a hidden Indian gem and La Cocina del Bizco a lively Spanish taberna.
- Hours change often in Mexico City. Check before you go, and reserve where you can.
Where to eat in Roma
Mi Compa Chava: Sinaloa-style seafood
Mi Compa Chava started as a delivery-only kitchen during the pandemic and became one of the most talked-about seafood spots in the city. Chef Salvador Orozco serves Sinaloa-style mariscos: aguachiles, ceviches, tostadas, oysters and huge seafood towers. Order the black shrimp aguachile and, if you're a group, the Señora Torres seafood tower. It's walk-in and there's usually a line, so go early. Zacatecas 172, Roma Norte.
Ultramarinos Demar: a seafood counter with a Bib Gourmand
Chef Lucho Martínez's seafood restaurant sits in a beautifully restored Art Deco building in Roma Norte, part diner and part bistro, with a raw-bar spirit and a Michelin Bib Gourmand for great value. It's a lovely spot for a long seafood lunch. Mérida 21, Roma Norte.
Cariñito Tacos: Asian-inspired tacos from a window
Cariñito is a tiny standing-room taco window with just four tacos on the menu, all built on Southeast Asian and Chinese flavors. Think pork belly slow-cooked for hours with spices from northeastern Thailand, or confit pork belly with hoisin and sriracha. It has been recognized by the Michelin Guide, and it's one of the most original bites in the neighborhood. Guanajuato 53, Roma Norte.
Covadonga: a historic cantina with Spanish roots
Covadonga opened in the 1940s as a gathering place for Mexico City's Spanish community and is still one of the most beloved cantinas in Roma: a big, bright hall with veteran waiters, old men playing dominoes and a younger crowd that took over the late nights. The food is classic Spanish cantina fare. Ernesto's order: the garlic soup and a tequila with sangrita. Puebla 121, Roma Norte. Learn more about cantina culture in our guide to Mexico City's cantinas.
Where to eat in Condesa
Rojo Bistrot: a Condesa classic since 2000
With its red neon sign and corner terrace on Avenida Amsterdam, Rojo Bistrot has been serving classic French bistro food since 2000. Regulars come back for the duck confit, the French onion soup and the crème brûlée. It's relaxed, bohemian and reliably good. Amsterdam 71, Condesa.
Taj Mahal: a hidden Indian gem
Easy to walk past, Taj Mahal is one of Condesa's best-kept secrets: a small, unpretentious Indian restaurant run by a family from Bangladesh, with generous curries and fair prices. Don't let the quiet dining room fool you. Francisco Márquez 134, Condesa.
La Cocina del Bizco: a Madrid taberna in Condesa
Chef Jesús Pedraza, from Madrid's Carabanchel neighborhood, brought the spirit of a castizo Spanish taberna to Condesa: vermouth on tap, freshly sliced ham, gildas, tinned seafood and a Basque cheesecake people line up for. It's lively, fun and one of the hardest tables to get in the area, so reserve ahead. It also has a small deli with Spanish products to take home. Ometusco 1, Hipódromo Condesa.
More places to eat and drink nearby
- Carnitas: El Rincón Tarasco is the closest great carnitas stand to Roma and Condesa. See our guide to the best carnitas in Mexico City.
- Mezcal: La Botica and La Chicha are two great mezcal bars in the area. Read our guide to mezcal vs tequila.
- After dark: our guide to hidden bars in Mexico City has the speakeasies to know.
Tips for eating in Roma and Condesa
- Reserve when you can. The most popular restaurants fill up, especially from Thursday to Saturday.
- Expect lines at the hot spots. Places like Mi Compa Chava don't take reservations.
- Check opening hours. Many restaurants close one day a week or close early on Sundays.
- Walk between them. Roma and Condesa are next to each other and best explored on foot.
- Eat street food too. Read our guide to eating street food safely in Mexico City.
Eat Mexico City with a local
Roma and Condesa are just the start. Our The Real Meal food tour takes you to the markets and street stands where locals eat, in a small group with a local guide.
About the author
Ernesto is a chef and the founder of Bondabu, where he designs food and culture experiences in Mexico City and Quito.
Frequently asked questions
Is it better to stay in Roma or Condesa?
Both are great bases for food lovers. Roma has a slightly edgier, more eclectic scene, while Condesa is greener and more relaxed, built around Parque México and Parque España. They're next to each other, so you can easily eat in both.
What is the best restaurant in Roma Norte?
It depends on your craving. For seafood, Mi Compa Chava or Ultramarinos Demar. For tacos, Cariñito. For a classic night out, Covadonga.
Do I need reservations in Roma and Condesa?
For popular restaurants like La Cocina del Bizco or Rojo Bistrot, yes. Some places, like Mi Compa Chava and Cariñito, are walk-in only.
Where can I eat Indian food in Condesa?
Taj Mahal, on Francisco Márquez, is a small, family-run Indian restaurant and one of the neighborhood's hidden gems.
